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With cooler temperatures approaching, you may be thinking of overseeding
your lawn. All hybrid bermudas are warm season grasses, meaning they
will flourish in the hottest months of the year and go dormant in the
winter. Overseeding is the best and only way to keep your lawn green
in the cold winter months. We have comprised a list of easy to follow
instructions to help you get started.
- Ideal temperature
for overseeding is a consistent 65 degrees at night, usually the
first weeks of October.
Watch your local news weather forecast or log on to AZMET to find out
nightly temperatures, you want the temperature to be at least 65 degrees
for one week. This will ensure you won’t plant too early.
- Prior
to scalping your lawn, check the thatch. If there is more than 1/2” of
thatch you may need to power rake your lawn. A power rake will quickly
loosen and rake the thatch, thus creating an open canopy
ideal for seed / soil contact. If there is less than 1/2” of
thatch, simply stop mowing for at least one week prior to overseeding
to truly
scalp your lawn. Begin by lowering the mowing height to 1/2”,
then mow in two directions. If you have done this correctly, your lawn
will
look like tiny bamboo shoots, very coarse and yellow
looking. It may take 2 to 3 mowings to accomplish this. Now you are
ready for seed.
- There are two types of rye grass available
for overseeding, Annual and Perennial. Annual ryegrass tends to grow
more quickly so,
you may
have to mow more frequently. Among it’s characteristics are a
light green color and a wider leaf texture. Generally Annual ryegrass
is less costly than Perennial ryegrass. Perennial ryegrass is darker
in color and has a finer leaf texture with a more dense growth pattern.
Perennial ryegrass is most commonly used on sports fields.
- Seeding rates for both Annual and Perennial ryegrass are approximately
10 to 20 pounds per 1000 square feet. Depending on your grass height
and density preference, the amount of seed necessary will vary. Use
this chart to help you determine the look you would like to achieve:
| Home Lawn |
1" to 2"
|
12 lbs per SQ/Ft
|
| Home Lawn |
1/2" to 1"
|
15 lbs per SQ/Ft
|
| Golf Course Tees |
1/4"
|
20 lbs per SQ/Ft
|
| Golf Course Greens |
less than 1/4"
|
30 lbs per SQ/Ft
|
- Use a spreader to get more even results.
Using a clock as an example, begin spreading seed from 12 to 6, ;
9 to 3, ; 2 to 8, and
finally 10 to 4. This will ensure even coverage of the entire lawn.
If you overlap
too much, your lawn will have thick stripes. If you don’t overlap,
your lawn will have very thin yellow sections. Prior to watering, be
sure to apply a starter fertilizer with either a 16-20-20 or 15-15-15
ratio.
- Keep the lawn consistently moist for
the first 7 to 10 days. You may want to lightly, but evenly cover
the ground with
mulch to help retain
moisture. Cover at approximately 1/8” to 1/4” thickness.
Water 4 to 5 times daily for approximately 5 to 10 minutes. Be sure
to check
your water coverage, you don’t want any puddles or dry areas.
Once your ryegrass is at a height of 3/4” to 1” reduce
your watering to 2 to 3 times per day. Following the first 10 to 14
days
after seeding,
gradually decrease watering to once per day. In the coldest months
it is only necessary to water once every other day. Keep in mind, as
the
temperatures begin to rise in the spring time, it may be necessary
to water every night.
- The first mowing can be done after
the first 10 to 14 days. Be sure to follow the 1/3 rule, that is,
don’t
remove more than 1/3 of the green stem. Mowing any shorter could uproot
the delicate new plant. The
first cut will be an approximate height of 1/2” to 1”.
If you prefer to keep your grass at a longer height, you may want to
wait
14
to 21 days before mowing.
- Your winter lawn will require proper
fertilization as with your summer lawn. We recommend a fertilizer with
a 21-7-14 or a 22-3-9 ratio. You
may also apply a fertilizer containing iron, such as “Ironite” for
best results. Check with your local nursery or home improvement center
for either of these products.
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